A Galician priest, Don Elías Valiña Sampedro (1929 to 1989), the cura or parish priest of O Cebreiro, was a true hero of the Camino. In his day, it was a mere shadow of what it had been in earlier centuries.
He completed his doctoral thesis in 1962, “The Way of Santiago: A Historical-Juridical Study,” for the University of Salamanca. Following his scholarly investigations, he was able to resurrect and partially rebuild the most popular rout in the Middle Ages, the Camino Frances. He also authored the first pocket guide book for pilgrims in modern times, Caminos a Compostela, that is Roads to Compostela, in 1971.
Even more importantly, though, for those of us walking now, in 1982, Fr. Sampedro obtained surplus yellow paint from the public works company, Pedrafita do Cebreiro, overseers of the local Spanish highways, which he used to paint his yellow arrows (flechas amarillas). He placed them on walls, streets, trees and poles, directing pilgrims along the entire Camino Frances, beginning in Roncesvalles. He died before the renewed pilgrimage took off, but his work led to the foundation of associations and the alternative routes that bring us to the tomb of St. James today.
Once, in 1982, while painting arrows in the Basque country, during a time of great political stress and insurgency, he was approached by the guardia civil. The arrows, which were unknown to them, had caught their attention and concern. Following them, they came upon Don Sampedro and his white van, in side of which were his yellow paint and a still moist paint brush. He gave them his name and acknowledged that he was the priest of O Cebreiro. Asked to explain his actions, he is recorded as having said he was preparing for a great invasion…which has become true.
He died young, at the age of 60. His statue and grave can be found at the Basilica of Santa Maria Real, in O Cebreiro. The marking of the Camino, though, continues.